Thursday, May 31, 2012

Best Soap Mold Ever.

I'm always looking for new soap molds that are cheap and work very well. I saw Eden's Secret you tube video's ( I love her cute accent) and noticed the mold she was using is the Lock & Lock tupperware I use for storing my bread. I purchased one at Carrefour because I live in Dubai, and poured my soap directly in and I didn't line it, well it didn't come out, so I scooped it all out and made soap balls. I tried it again this time I lightly lined it with wax paper because I have yet to find butcher paper or freezer paper here. I un-molded it the next day and it poped right out. I makes a great soap mold, for cold process, and glycerin soap as well, just don't fill it to the top so it's easy to remove, and you have yourself a very cheap and amazing soap mold. My favorite part is the lid that snaps on, and they stack up very well.

Saturday, April 28, 2012

How to calculate soy wax burn time for candles.

There is the general rule, for every ounce of soy wax you can calculate about 10 hours burn time.This only applies to soy wax, because we all know all waxes burn differently.

How do I calculate the burn time of candles? This method can be applied to all types of waxes.

Before you light the candle, use a scale to weigh it. Once you have the original weight trim the wick and light the candle, letting it burn for four hours. When the four hours are up blow it out, let it cool, and weigh it again. Subtract the weight after the burn cycle from the original weight and divide by the number of hours. The number you end up with is your hourly burn rate.

Once you have the hourly burn rate divide the weight of the whole candle* by the hourly rate and you end up with the number of hours your candle will burn.
Amount Consumed (Original wt. - wt. After Burning) ÷ Hours Burnt = Hourly Burn Rate Original wt. (minus wt. of container) ÷ Hourly Burn Rate = Approximate Burn Time
  • If you are testing a container candle make sure to subtract the weight of the container from the weight of the whole candle before dividing by your hourly rate.
  • Ounces work fine for calculating the burn rate but if your scales has grams as an option we would recommend using that. Since grams are so much smaller than ounces you end up with nicer numbers ( 5 grams/hr instead of .16 ounces/hr. ).
  • Although one burn cycle (four hours) will give you a fairly accurate hourly burn rate numerous cycles (three or four) will produce a much more accurate number. The first burn cycle is always a little off because the wick is not yet completely saturated with wax, color, and fragrance.

If this is too complicated for you, or your just to busy, then try the burn time calculator at

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

New Soap Design

I call this design blue moon. It has a very sexy yet subtle man scent with hints of peppermint. Made with both cold process and glycerin soap this is sure you please the man in your life.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Bath Bomb Mold & Soap Ball Mold

I needed a new bath bomb mold, because mines always busts from excessive use. So I searched long and hard and came across this tool, it's actually a snowball maker. How cool is that? I went and purchased one because it was so cheap and figured if it didn't work out I would find another use for it. It makes 4 inch bath bombs, and the best part of it all it has other uses too. It also makes perfect soap balls from my cold process, or hot process soaps (make sure that you don't insulate your soap and that it doesn't go through the gel phase to make it easier). I also used it to make soap on a rope, by adding cold process soap, and just letting the rope hang out while pressing down on the handles to form the shape, you instantly have soap on the rope. It's one tool with many uses, and its cheap who can beat that?

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

TKB Trading rocks, I love all of my new colors.

I finally got all of the new colors I ordered from TKB Trading. I 'm so excited I can hardly contain myself, lol. I have so many new ideas for beautiful soaps, and have been waiting a while to get these colors because they had to be shipped to Dubai.

Friday, February 10, 2012

How to make your own wooden soap mold.

I'm a genius, I don't know why I never thought of this before, but I am glad I did. I was running around in Ace Hardware trying to get some things when I ran into the lumber section. I was watching this man buy wood, and I asked him what he was planning on doing with it, he said he was taking it over to get cut so he can make shelves for his home. So I said they cut wood here, he said of coarse, so then it hit me, I could make my own wooden soap mold.

I first purchased this piece of wood. I figured it would make a nice size mold.
From How to make your own soap mold

I got the wood cut into these pieces. I didn't really take measurements, but I did pull out a photo of what a a wooden soap mold log should look like, and that gave the employee a idea of what he was going to cut for me. After that I got some nails so I can assemble the whole thing together. He told me I didn't need glue and that the nails would be more then enough to hold it together.
From How to make your own soap mold

So I started off by putting the nails into the piece of wood that was going to be my end piece.
From How to make your own soap mold

Then I nailed it to the base, and repeated the same step again, to get both ends of the mold secured.
From How to make your own soap mold

Here's what it should look like when both end pieces are on.
From How to make your own soap mold

I kept the mold facing towards me as you see in the picture above, I layed the piece of wood board on top, and began to nail it into the base, and repeated the step again for the other side.
From How to make your own soap mold

Wooden Soap Mold
From How to make your own soap mold

This whole project was under $20, and I was very happy that it only took me 30 minutes to complete. The mold measure 4x4x25. I was trying not to waste wood, and to make this project relatively very easy. Next time I would get the wider piece of wood, and make a lid with knob for my mold. I might even stamp my name all over the mold, and apply a clear lacquer to give it a more professional look.

I will keep you updated on the other molds I make, because now I'm hooked. This was fun, fast, and easy to do.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Soap Cake Mold with Pictures

I found this cool silicon cake mold, and thought I wonder if I should get this? Then I ran across Soap & Restless blog, and low and behold she uses this mold to make her soap cakes. They look so yummy. Check her out.

From Soap

From Soap

Saturday, January 28, 2012

What is superfat or discount, and why is a minimum 5% discount recommended?

If you use all the lye necessary to exactly saponify all of the fatty acids in the oils, the soap would have no excess lye or excess oil (next to impossible without a chemistry lab). It would have a zero discount and there would be no superfat. If you discounted the lye, let's say by 5%, 5% of the soap would contain oils that have not chemically reacted with the lye. i.e. all the lye was used up in reacting with 95% of the oils. The soap would have a 5% superfat. These unspecified oils are good for conditioning the skin. A soap with no discount or superfat will clean better. However, other than conditioning the skin, there are other important reasons to discount the lye (or superfat the soap). Please see the next question.

The SAP values used to calculate the amount of lye - in this calculator and in others - is an average. If you purchase oils/fats that have been assayed by a chemical lab, you will know the exact SAP value of the oils/fats. (Your wallet will be a little thinner too). If you weigh these oils and the lye on very precise laboratory scales, you can confidently make a true zero discount soap.

One of my references gives the Potassium Hydroxide (chemical symbol KOH) SAP value for coconut oil as 250-264. The SAP for other oils is specified similarly as a range of values. Why? There are many variables that contribute to the chemical qualities of a carrier oil. Here are a few to give you the general idea:

Species of the botanical used to make the oil.
Geographical location of the source botanical. i.e. variable climate.
Varying types of processes used to create the oil.
Seasonal differences in when the botanical was harvested.
Maturity of the botanical when it was harvested.

The minimum 5% discount/superfat is recommended to allow for these variances so you do not end up with soap that contains unused lye.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Column Swirl Tutorial

I was on You Tube looking at videos for bath bomb machines that I was considering buying, and found this by accident. All I could say is WOW. Hill Country Haiku does an amazing job with her column swirl. I think I'm going to try this method this week, and keep you guys posted. Now all I need to do if find these wooden dowels so I can do the same. Wish me luck.

Friday, January 13, 2012

How to turn your hobby into a business.

It's been forever since I last posted, but this is worth he wait. For all of you soapmakers out there, that want to take there business to the next level. This is made for you.

I love to look for other handmade or natural soaps on the market and I stumbled across True Body Products. I went through her website, and was very impressed that she only sold one kind of soap, and she was thriving in her business. I was even more amazed at how The New York Times wrote many articles on her. This is a great read for any one who wants to learn how to turn there business into something big, especially us soapmakers.

How a Low-Tech Soap Maker Raised $400,000 From Investors

A Start-Up Soap Maker Starts to Get Traction