Thursday, March 12, 2009

Rosemary Mint Foot Scrub

This is my new creation. Again don't pay attention to my label because I ran out and just put any label I had lying around. I made liquid soap, and decided to add a ton of salt to it, and then the liquid soap turned into a hard brick. After letting it rest for a while I mashed it up with the fork, added green color, and rosemary mint scent, and I was finished. The end result a creamy yet scrubby foot scrub.

From Soap

Understanding Liquid Soapmaking

This tutorial is written by Pat Prenty of www.essencesupply.com. I already now how to make liquid soap but I sure wish I would have found this tutorial before I spent many a nights trying to figure it out myself. Thanks Pat

Now this may seem to be an obvious point, but one day I got the light bulb and it seemed pretty important.
Liquid soap is water soluble, when you mix water and oil, the oil will turn the water white and eventually migrate out and float on top of the water. This means that if you want to superfat any oils left over will, first make your soap cloudy, then eventually end up as a layer of white on top of your soap.

Some people may not mind a cloudy soap and may even want the look of a superfatted liquid soap, the bottom line is that I have never found a way to keep the oils incorporated in the soap with out adding polysorbate 20… which brings us to the next point. If you want to superfat your liquid soap, you have to use either turkey red oil (sulfated castor) which is water soluble, or add polysorbate 20 to your oils to make them water soluble.

I now make liquid soap at a 0% superfat. When you add fragrance or essential oils that close to the line, your soap may turn cloudy due to the oil in the fragrance. This will not happen if you make your soap with water soluble fragrances, but water based fragrances are just regular fragrances with polysorbate 20 in them, so you might as well add it yourself.
I have taken pictures of a soap that I made that turned cloudy and separated, so I took some pictures to show how well polysorbate 20 works.

This was the cloudy soap. It turned cloudy when I added the borax, so I suspect that I miss-measured the lye a bit to get a bit more superfatted soap.

From Liquid Soap


As I added the polysorbate 20 the soap started to clear. When you first add it, the soap does not seem to be effected, but as you stir it slowly starts to clear.

From Liquid Soap


From Liquid Soap


Here is the final product, I added 1 drop of green food coloring to the whole batch and my fragrance. By the next day it was crystal clear., and smelled great btw.

From Liquid Soap


Thick soap
I like you have tried everything to thicken soap, bottom line… I have found nothing that will thicken your soap except the mixture of oils.
I have tried, crothix (various ways including neutralizing with citric acid), xanthum gum, various carbopol's, guar gum, and innumerable chemicals. The only thing that I have found that will make a thicker soap is by using no more than 20% coconut oil. I also made a 100% batch of castor oil batch and it was water thin. I have read on a list that some people are making a thicker soap by boiling down their soap to evaporate the water out of your solution. I personally did not find that that works.

As you can tell, my "understanding liquid soapmaking" is pretty low on information. I have been making cold process liquid for over a year now, and for me it is much less stressful. I will be updating this page again with CP liquid soap later in the year (after tax time). If you have any other insights to liquid soap, let me know and I will put it on the web page. I have to be able to reproduce your results so it may take a while to get on the site. I will of course credit you for the information.

From Liquid Soap

Liquid Soap Making Tutorial

The first thing I must say before I get started is that I couldn't have made and truly understood liquid soapmaking with out reading Catherine Failor's book Making Natural Liquid Soaps. I strongly suggest buying this book and reading it over before attempting liquid soap. The method I use on this page is her paste method which I find very easy to make. The reason I am writing this web page is because I understand that when you are on a soap journey, the more information the better.

From Liquid Soap


The recipe
366 g coconut oil
1424 canola oil
400 g Potassium Hydroxide
1204 g water

This method uses a double boiler system, I use two pots, one
smaller than the other, the handles on the top pot hold it suspended over the bottom of the larger pot. I put water in the bottom one and when the top pot is on it, the water level is over the bottom of the top pot.

From Liquid Soap


When you add the potassium hydroxide it will sound like it is going to explode or boil over, but the water does not bubble up at all and it doesn't even heat us as much as sodium hydroxide so don't worry.
One more note, I am one of those risk taking soapers who doesn't even wear gloves when making soap. (this is not a recommended method of making soap!). When mixing the water & potassium hydroxide together and when mixing the soap there seems to be a very caustic steam that comes from the mixture. When I make liquid soap I always wear long sleeves and gloves otherwise my skin begins to burn.

-pre-heat the water in the bottom of your double boiler
- heat and mix your oils and fats like you normally would for cp, using the
temperatures 160 for the oils and 140 for the Potassium/water mixture, they will get to these temperatures very fast so be ready with your hot water in the bottom of your double boiler when you start.

From Liquid Soap


Try to bring your soap to trace, which even with a stick blender is pretty long. It will go through a few stages before it hardens into your paste. It will also keep trying to separate, but keep mixing it until it is VERY VERY thick like a very thick custard or maybe a meringue.

From Liquid Soap


Tip: Try to keep your soap as close to 160 deg as you can, if you go over 160 your soap will boil up over the top of the pot, much less than 160 and your soap will take forever to trace

This is not trace, just a good imitation. It has to get much thicker than this. If you stopped at this point your soap would separate.

From Liquid Soap


Nope, this isn't it either, keep going.

I am not sure you can tell by this picture, but at some point your soap may look sort of grainy and like it is separating. Keep going, this is normal.

From Liquid Soap


Now this is a stage you have to look out for. This is what your soap looks like just before it starts to puff up and out of the pot. What happens is that the soap gets too hot (you notice that it is in the double boiler.) and it doubles in size.

From Liquid Soap


If you see this start happening get your pot into your sink and let it cool off. I have a sprayer in my sink and I use it on cold and spray the outside of the pot. I don't have any pictures of the soap puffing up, because I was just a tad too busy making sure I didn't get caustic soap all over the counter and the floor. That is exactly what happened when I tried a crockpot to make liquid soap. I guess my crockpot is a bit too hot and there is no way to cool it down quickly as the sides are meant for insulation. Catherine mentions this in her liquid soapmaking book, but she says that it is because of the trapped air in the soap. Through my experience I disagree with her theory. It does look as though it is full of air and that is why it is puffing up, but as long as the pot was too hot, I could not stir it down, while using a sprayer to cool the side of the pot immediately made the soap collapse back to it's original size. Whatever the theory, be aware this may happen and be prepared.

I didn't get a picture of the most important part of this process, trace, as when the soap came down from it's puffy stage it collapsed into a solid mass. This is sort of what it looked like, but this is a bit further on in the process, after it has been heating for a while.

From Liquid Soap


Put the soap into the top of your double boiler and bring the heat up. It
will make a very stiff paste, I don't bother to try and mix it, it is far too thick.
Check your mixture twice for separation 20 min apart. You have to pry the paste away from the bottom of the pot. If it has separated there will be a clear liquid on the bottom. If you find this you will have to mix it up again, which believe me is not that easy, a very good reason to make sure you get it too full trace.

Keep the water in the double boiler boiling for 3 hours. Make sure that your pot is covered, the idea is to get it as hot as possible. After about 2 hours it will start to turn translucent, if not keep cooking it at a very fast boil until it does. Cook for 1 hour after the translucent stage. I have cooked it for about 4 hours once, and it made a beautiful clear batch of soap. I have never tested my liquid soap with phenolthalein so I don't know how well that works.

From Liquid Soap


From Liquid Soap


From Liquid Soap


Dilution:
Scrape the paste into a pot of 4820 ml of water for dilution. Break it up a bit to get it into manageable sized chunks.

From Liquid Soap


Slowly heat up your water/soap mixture to a medium heat and then turn it off overnight.

From Liquid Soap


Make sure the pot is covered. If your soap is high in soft oils (which this recipe is) it will get a skin on it if it isn't covered. Once you add the borax it will fix this but until that time, keep the lid on all of the time.

If you have lots of coconut in your soap it will completely melt overnight. If it is high in soft oils (again which this recipe is) you will have to reheat it in the morning to get rid of the last of the chunks. In the morning heat up your mixture to just warm and melt any leftover chunks, again making sure you keep the lid on until it warms up.

The soap doesn't have to be very hot. Add your neutralizer, I use borax
Neutralizer:
56 g borax
112 g water
Heat up the water and borax mixture in the microwave until the borax completely melts. This is harder than it sounds. Borax will not melt until it is very hot and it will become solid again as soon as it cools so you have to heat it up just before you add it to your soap. When the borax is melted it will be as clear as water.

From Liquid Soap


When you add your fragrance to the soap it may cloud the soap., the soap will clear again as it cools.

From Liquid Soap


Sulfated castor:
This recipe should give you a very clear gel like liquid soap, but to get it totally clear you have to make a soap that is at 0% superfat. You are a soapmaker so you know that soap made with no superfatting will leave your skin quite dry. The only thing that will superfat this soap and not make it opaque is Sulfated castor oil. It is kind of hard to get, and really if you don't care if your soap is transparent, you can use any oil that you like. I like the clear soap so I hunted down the Sulfated castor. [See understanding liquid soapmaking for an update about superfatting]
-add 70g of sulfated if you are using it, and fragrance. If you get the mixture too hot, you may want to wait for the solution to cool down a bit to add the fragrance, otherwise it will vaporize. Let it cool and voila, liquid soap.
It seems complicated at first, but once you do it a few times it becomes much clearer. Remember what CP seemed like when we first started.

From Liquid Soap

Basic Lotion Recipe

Basic Lotion Recipe

In 1962, Rachel Carson wrote in her groundbreaking book, Silent Spring, “For the first time in the history of the world, every human being is now subject to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the moment of conception until death.” We are exposed to synthetic chemicals in foods as well as in skin care products. The following lotion recipe comes from Jennifer Sundstrom of Natural Resource Herbals and contains high quality safe ingredients that can make winter skin glow, naturally.

1 heaping tablespoon grated beeswax
2 ounces sweet almond, or grapeseed oil (or a mix of both)
1 teaspoon coconut oil (optional)
2 tablespoons water
1–2 drops essential oils (optional)

Melt beeswax in a double boiler. I recommend a glass measuring cup in a small pan to make pouring your finished product easier.

Add oil(s) and heat until everything liquefies. Heating olive oil promotes rancidity, so only heat as much as necessary to re-melt the beeswax.

Remove from heat. Using a hand-held stick/immersion blender, begin whipping the oil/beeswax mixture. Slowly drizzle in the water. Continue mixing for another minute or so. The lotion will be quite runny and hot at this point and will thicken over time as it cools. As your lotion cools, give it a whiz with your hand blender every 10–15 minutes until fully cool.

Pack lotion into the jar of your choice. Amber glass jars are ideal.

If you prefer a heavier cream-style, add more beeswax, or substitute coconut oil for the olive oil. If you prefer a more liquid lotion, add less beeswax.

Recipe can be doubled/tripled/quadrupled.

Optional: If you use essential oils, add 1–2 drops when adding the water.

Olive oil is highly regarded for its ability to hold moisture on the skin. It has a very long shelf life if not exposed to light or heat. For a high quality product, freshness and a lengthy shelf life, only buy olive oil in tins or opaque containers. To infuse olive oil: Place fresh cut-up plant material in a jar and cover with pomace olive oil. Store in a dark place for 6 weeks. Strain plant material and your oil is ready! Herbal possibilities for infused oil: lavender, rosemary, elderflower, rose petal, or your favorite plant ally.

Six Color Swirl Soap Tutorial

Six Color Swirl, In the Pot Method, with Log Mold Soap Tutorial

Tutorial made by Christy Rose of KBShimmer. www.kbshimmer.blogpost.com , www.kbshimmer.etsy.com

So I when needed to get another 6 color swirl batch in stock, so I thought I would take pics for a tutorial. With the swirl contest upon us, I wanted to share this with other soapers.

WARNING: I know this works with my recipe, and this scent. Each formula is different, as is scent, so try this at your own risk.

For this, set up is the most important. I have all my containers for colors set up ahead of time. I am making a 64 oz (of oils) batch. Approx 1 tsp of mica is in each cup. I have my oils melted, my lye cool, and my mold all ready. My Fragrance is already mixed into my oils.

For this soap, I have used the pop micas from TKB Trading. My base is uncolored.
From Six Color Swirl Soap


I then mix my lye into my oils. I mix until everything is just emulsified. I do move quickly, and start separating just after emulsified. Maybe the lightest trace. If you are not confident with your fragrance, or recipe, I can not guarantee you will not experience separation.
From Six Color Swirl Soap


I quickly pour off my base color into each of the cups with the waiting mica. For this soap, I am pouring about 1.5 cups of raw soap into each cup.
From Six Color Swirl Soap


I stick blend each color to combine. Yellow then orange. Then rinse. Then the pink. Rinse. Etc. After mixing, I am still at a light to medium trace.
From Six Color Swirl Soap

From Six Color Swirl Soap


I then get ready for the In-The-Pot Swirl. For 6 colors, I will pour each color around the bucket, clockwise in rainbow order. If using similar colors, like reds, oranges, and yellows, have each color next to a contrasting one so the colors don't blend. Here I start with the pink, pouring from about -8 inches above the top of the bucket so that the color sinks all the way to the bottom. At this point, I pour about two thirds in the pot, setting the rest aside.
From Six Color Swirl Soap


Here you can see the pink, orange, yellow, and green. I am pouring the blue:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


After pouring the purple (between the blue and red), I then go back and pour about half of what is left of each color in the center:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


To get the colors to actually swirl, you will need to stir the pot. Taking my spatula, I put it in the pot near the red, and go around the pot clockwise 1-2 times. I follow the same path, about 1.5 inches from the side of the pot, right where the color is. I don't head to the center. But, since I am using a larger spatula to stir, it does move the colors more then going through them, so I probably do catch soap toward the middle.The more you stir, the finer the swirls will be. Too much swirling and you risk mixing the colors too much, getting grey.
From Six Color Swirl Soap


Next, you will pour into the mold. Try to pour from one end of the mold to the other, you will probably need to do more then one pass, but again, if you pour in too many passes, you risk overmixing:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


After pouring:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


You can leave the soap at this point, but I like to swirl on the top too. So, sow, I take the rest of the soap we saved from the swirl colors and pour on the top. By now, you are probably at a thicker trace with the left over soap, so you may have to spoon it on, or if you can, pour on the top from 3-4 inches away, so the color does not sink down and ruin the swirls below. Here I start with the pink:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


And continue with other colors:
From Six Color Swirl Soap

From Six Color Swirl Soap



When done with the pouring, before swirling, it will look like this:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


I like to use a thin wooden stick with pointed end to swirl the top. Here you can do lines, circles, what ever your style is:
From Six Color Swirl Soap


And when done:
From Six Color Swirl Soap

From Six Color Swirl Soap

This is the end result.
From Six Color Swirl Soap

I hope this inspires a lot of soapers to push with log mold swirls using the In The Pot method. I love it!

Whipped Soap

I have always wanted to make whipped soap, so I went on a search for a great tutorial and I found one. Thanks to BitterCreek.com Blog I am now able to make whipped soap that floats.

I love creating soap more than just about anything else. A while back I made my first batch of whipped soap and before I even had it on my site my friends and family wiped me out! I've decided to stick to selling just CP wholesale but the whipped soaps are such fun that I have to retail them!

Here is a tutorial on how to make whipped soap that actually floats!
From Whipped Soap


The supplies are pretty standard to cold process soap making with the exception of one detail, you need to have a stand mixer like a Kitchen Aid or similar. I luckily inherited a lovely 1960's Sunbeam that can be put to use without risk of getting my good one messy!

Recipe for Flickers Whipped Soap:
Castor Oil 2 oz. (6.25%)
Coconut Oil 7 oz. (21.88%)
Olive Oil 7 oz. (21.88%)
Palm Oil 7 oz. (21.88%
Shea Butter 2 oz. (6.25%)
Crisco 7 oz. (21.88%)

The lye used in whipped soap is Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) I find an excess fat range of 6% to be ideal when making whipped soap, the amount of Sodium Hydroxide for this recipe is 4.42 oz. You will add the lye to ICE COLD distilled water. Always be sure to follow proper handling precautions when making any soap from scratch. Proper eye, and hand protection is important. Using a respirator is never a bad idea either. For this recipe I use 12 fluid ounces of water. You MUST chill the lye solution before adding it to the soap. I find a range of 65-70* ideal.

Once your lye solution has reached a good temp, go ahead and line your soap mold. I use a standard 3 lb wood log mold which works very well for this size recipe. Remember since the oils are whipped the volume increases too.

Second, weigh out all your solid oils (shea, coconut, crisco & palm) and place them inside the mixing bowl. You do not need to heat your oils which is the nice part to making whipped soap! Turn your mixer on at this point on low (if you try much higher right away it will splatter!) Increase your speed as the oils begin to smooth out.
From Whipped Soap


After your solid oils are somewhat smoothed out, weigh our your liquid oils (castor and olive).
From Whipped Soap


Now go ahead and slowly add in your liquid fats.
From Whipped Soap


Patience is key when making whipped soap. It does not happen fast. The mixing process can take up to an hour but hey, at least you can put your mixer on auto pilot, right? This is a photo of the oils all blended together but not quite at the smooth point it needs to be to add the lye.
From Whipped Soap


Once your oils are smooth and whipped you are ready to add your chilled lye solution. ADD THE LYE SLOWLY! I turn my mixer down to the lowest speed for this and add just a little at a time. After you are sure your lye solution is blended you can add your fragrance oil. I used two ounces of Dream Angels Heavenly Type (BNL) from Bitter Creek for this particular soap, it smells just dreamy! Here is a pic of your oils ready for lye!
From Whipped Soap


After you've got your fragrance and lye mixed in it's time for color! I needed my base to be colored in blue and white to be a smaller portion of the soap. I scooped out the white into a small stainless bowl and set it aside.
From Whipped Soap


Once I have separated my soap I can then color my base, for this soap I used the Blue Rainbow Mica from Bitter Creek North. I used about 3/4 tsp for this batch. Blend the dyes in by turning the mixer back on low until blended well.
From Whipped Soap


Once you are ready, go ahead and mold! I used blue on the bottom, white in the center and blue on the top for a cloud like appearance. You can swirl, layer and do just about anything you can imagine with whipped soap!
From Whipped Soap


Allow your finished soap to set in the mold for about 24 hours. Remove and cut with a wire. Standard soap cutters and knives tend to break pieces off as you cut. Cure this soap for about 4 weeks before selling.

Happy Soaping!